1628  Recuerdos de Buenos Aires 7/9

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 13:08:24 EDT
From: Charles Roques <Crrtango@AOL.COM>
Subject: Recuerdos de Buenos Aires 7/9

Wed 7/9 - "9 de Julio"

Today is a holiday, Independence day, so most businesses are closed, as are
most of the locutorios. Went to Cafe Tortoni but it is too crowded with
tourists and locals enjoying the day off. A beautiful old confiteria (pastry/coffee
shop), popular with many famous tango musicians and celebrities over the years.
Still maintained very well, it's high columned ceilings, varnished wood and
marble, and many photos and images of famous musician and poets evoke another
era. Great place to sit and have coffee and pastry and just relax, (but not on
a holiday or Sunday.) Go during a normal workday or evening which I will do
later this week, perhaps Friday.

Regarding lodging, I can't offer too many suggestions because I rented a
private apartment from a friend (except for the last day) while there but with the
exchange rate at $2.7 pesos - $1.US, it is a great time to stay in the
upscale hotels. There are many comfortable and affordable hotels besides the fancy
ones but this is also a perfect time to stay in a prime location. If your stay
is only a couple weeks, these hotels are great. I had to change the last day
so went down the street to the Hotel Castelar (Avenida de Mayo), an older,
luxury, first class hotel. The Spanish poet, Garcia Lorca stayed there, as did
other luminaries over the years. The current cost is $150. pesos for a simple
single and prices go up from there but that translates to about $54. US per night
and includes a breakfast buffet in the AM. if you inquire about prices just
divide by 2.7 to calculate your cost (in dollars and other currencies of like
value.) If you are staying longer and are thinking about an apartment, try to
shop around. Some are not so cheap and cost almost the same as a hotel which
can be expensive after a month. They are often not in the center of town so try
to figure out how convenient their location is. Having a kitchen can save
money on food although restaurants are inexpensive and part of the experience.
Even though I had a kitchen, it was difficult to pass up the many local eateries,
many of which are good, not to mention that many of them are quite beautiful.
I saw many old restaurants and parrilladas, and even local "greasy spoons"
and neighborhood places that were very old and often very charming, with
interesting architecture and local color. Not only in the center of town but also in
the neighborhoods. Negotiate a price for the term if you stay in an apartment
and calculate it to see if it is really a bargain compared to the hotels. Some
may even charge more because they are apartments. It is a popular source of
income there. There are of course very good deals but use your common sense.
Also try to find it on a map. Some neighborhoods are better; what about public
transportation? Taxis are common but not as easy to find coming in from the
outskirts. La Boca for example is not a good place to be in the middle of the
night. Even the famous "Caminito" area is in a seedy run-down neighborhood, in
spite of it's attraction for tourists. During the day it's great but after dark
you might be transported back to the old days of tango, but not in the good
way.

I experienced one of those coincidences that only happen rarely but will
always be remembered and even inspire us. As I said today is the 9th of July and
soon after I got into a taxi to go to San Telmo, the driver turned on to the
Avenida "9 de Julio," the great wide boulevard that bisects the city. After a
few blocks as we passed the Obelisk I suddenly became aware that on the radio
Juan D'Arienzo was playing of course, "9 de Julio," one of my favorite songs to
dance to. I realized I probably won't ever be at that place at that time again
but I now have an indelible memory of that "tri-incidence". It will be
difficult for that song to ever be just another tango for me.

Home to rest then later to La Nacional. This one was easy since it was a two
block walk from the apartment. Restaurants are open so a nice meal in the
neighborhood and a stroll to the milonga. La N. is a great space, large auditorium
with a very high ceiling, tables around the perimeter. Easy to make eye
contact. Saw Rosas Collantes from NYC there, we had some fun milongas together.
Getting used to seeing the usual habitues. Enjoyed the music, all classic tangos
as usual but the DJ played parts of Beatles songs all night for cortinas; fun
way to punctuate the tanda. Some DJs play only three tangos per tanda, then
waltzes, and milongas but that will vary. Some will play five, then two waltzes,
etc but they all follow more or less the same format. Some wine, some dances,
walk over for breakfast on Avenida de Mayo, then back to the cupula. Heels
holding up well, must be the adrenalin. Can't wait to get the new shoes on Sat.

Tomorrow Confiteria Ideal.
Cheers,
Charles