2854 Impressions from the first tango trip to Buenos Aires. Part II. Milongas.
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 18:38:05 +0000
From: Oleh Kovalchuke <oleh_k@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Impressions from the first tango trip to Buenos Aires. Part II. Milongas.
The milongas
My primary goal for this trip was to go as many milongas as possible. So
normally I would go to two/three milongas per day.
Overall impressions.
* I saw dancers dancing in open embrace on three occasions: one tourist
couple at Club Espanol, one guy at El Beso switched to open embrace when he
danced with a tourist from Spain, one guy late at Nino Bien after the floor
cleared, this one could have been local dancer. Besides these three
exceptions people dance chest to chest at all milongas I went to. Everyday
milongas are as crowded as those at crowded Denver festival with about as
many or more people. The level of dancing is naturally more uniform and
rather high. I have not seen any beginners, either they take lessons for
couple years before starting to dance or there are special beginner
milongas??
* After each song within tanda couples simply stand on the floor and chat
for half or full minute into the next song. Only every forth/fifth local
dancer speaks conversational English. So if you do not speak Spanish the
pauses will feel rather cumbersome. This is another reason why tourists do
not get invited often. Tourists do speak English usually.
* At most milongas a tanda of salsa/merengue is played (at some rock-n-roll
is played too). As far as salsa dancing is concerned BsAs is very far from
Miami, Boston, Denver, San Diego or San Juan. In fact salsa dancing at
milongas is downright pitiful (it may be better in salsa clubs, I didn t go
to those in BsAs). Also a tanda of local country line dance is also often
played. Cute to see the first couple times but in general I do not like line
dances of any kind limited improvisation.
* Many milongas have performances by performance dancers. The best I saw was
at Porteno y Bailarin by Pibe (?), stocky guy with black crew cut
excellent close embrace dancing not limited by line of dance and space. The
worst was one of several performances at Salon Canning the guy routinely
threw follower in the air, there was virtually no dancing with each other
if I want to see figure skating I ll buy a TV, there is no need to do it to
tango music and on the dance floor too.
* Same place may host different quality milongas at different days of the
week.
* People do smoke but it is not that bad - the ceilings are high and
ventilation is good. Also I used to smoke too so it is not something
entirely new to me.
* Unless you drink wine be ready to make the crucial choice: Sin or con
gas? (bottled water). At El Beso edible food also served.
* see cabeseo
Listed below are some of milongas I went to. For more complete and
betterinformed list see: Dancing in Buenos Aires by Jenny DeBouzek
(https://www.tangodowntown.net/dancinginbsas.html) and Tango postcard by Bibi
Wong (https://ourworld.cs.com/bibibwong/homepage.html).
Monday
Matinee at Confiteria Ideal. My first milonga. Straight from the plane. I
told so the hostess and she kindly put me in the middle of the first row. It
was a bit stressful, I stared too much but I did get to dance a bit.
Lo de Celia. The best and the most thoughtful placement of dancers by the
host. Older crowd especially on Monday. Again I was placed right in the
midst of milogueros. Here I have met D. rather luckily. Still stressed and
clumsy with cabeseo. Had very different and good experience at Saturday
matinee. Got to dance with some exceptionally good dancers both local and
from New York (clandestine "I am local" New Yorker who visits BsAs twice a
year). Lo de Celia is the best place to go to on Saturday considering that
this day of the week is mostly couples night elsewhere.
Salon Canning. Mixed crowd (mostly younger, the most touristy place of all).
Los Cosos de al Lao quartet was playing. Original violin player. Very
crowded. I watched mostly (danced only four tandas).
Tuesday (everything within walking distance of hotel at Avenida de Mayo)
Matinee at El Arranque. Older crowd. Still somewhat uncomfortable with
cabeseo. Danced with D. again. Left early to get more CDs at Zivals.
Un Monton de Tango at El Beso. Relatively small milonga. The best music
selection and the best overall quality of dancing. A bit dark for cabeseo
especially if you are not very good at it. People tend to know each other
and to dance within the circle of friends and acquaintances. Very friendly
bar personnel. Order cafe con leche separado. Also here is where I was
seated next to two hardcore milongueros a lot of false invitations. One of
attendees confided me that this milonga is where middle to upper middle
class of BsAs goes to dance to. Certainly the most dressed up crowd. Most of
the dancers migrate to Porteno y Bailarin after 1 am.
Porteno y Bailarin. Down the street from El Beso. Mixed crowd. Two small
elongated floors. A chance to observe old milongueros presiding over one of
the floors. Occasionally they abandon presiding part for a bit of dancing
with eager followers. I am getting better at cabeseo.
Wednesday
Fattomano custom shoes are just couple blocks from Salon Canning matinee and
reachable by subte (subway). This matinee is not too crowded. Left early to
go to group class with La Academia at El Beso. The class was followed by a
small milonga. Took a chance to dance with fellow students.
La Nacional. Diverse crowd. Older, younger, locals, tourists. Elongated and
sizable floor. I had a lot of fun with D. at this milonga. I came late (at
midnight) and luckily she happened to have an empty seat at her table. She
has the best deadpan sense of humor I have encountered in years. Keen eye,
sharp tongue and no qualms whatsoever about using it. What a relief this
milonga was. This is where I truly have started to feel comfortable at BsAs
milongas.
Thursday
Matinee at Club Espanol. The most ornate/posh building of all. Due to
apparent absence of hardcore milongueros I got to be a minor star at this
particular milonga. In fact I had to hide my eyes for a bit of break from
dancing.
Salon Canning. Me and D. went here to avoid crowds. The place was fairly
empty since everyone is at Nino Bien on Thursdays. This again gave me a
chance to be a minor star. A lot of dancing with different people including
Japanese tigress, grrr (D., animal print dress, very animated footwork).
Nino Bien past 2 am. Floor large enough to accommodate everyone you have
heard of plus some tourists before 3 am. Reasonably empty past 3 am.
Friday
Salon Canning. Friday was very crowded. A lot of performances.
La Estrella is couple beautiful shady streets away from Salon Canning. Free
entrance past 3:30 am. Also large floor. Mostly younger crowd. Tandas
routinely have six songs in them at this milonga. Last tanda at 5:50 am is
danced with lights off. Try it. Ride to hotel at six in the morning was
memorable too BsAs waking up/going to bed at morning twilight.
Saturday
Matinee at Lo de Celia. The place to dance on Saturday if you are single. I
managed to get into tango zone within one tango with one exceptional local
dancer at this milonga I did not have to lead her since she always was
able to be in front of me, amazing skill.
El Beso. I started to really dance at El Beso at this milonga. Danced with
daughter of Picasso (yep, the painter). She is from Spain of course, dances
tango for one year and has that easygoing cocktail parlor demeanor which is
so difficult to imitate without years of practice. Now, what would be a
clever retort to Oleh, Oleh (said to a bull fight motive)? Charge?
La Viruta (same place as La Estrella). I went to this milonga after El Beso
to drink some wine and to watch only the floor is raised at the entrance,
nice vantage point.
Sunday
El Beso Went to Plaza Dorrego and decided to walk to El Beso instead of
riding cab to Tasso. A mistake in retrospect.
Porteno y Bailarin this was my last milonga and I danced a lot at this one
Cheers, Oleh K.
Colorado Springs
https://TangoSpring.com
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 18:51:32 +0000
From: Rick Jones <rwjones2001@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Impressions from the first tango trip to Buenos Aires. Part II. Mi
Oleh,
Thank you for a most wonderful tango-logue. It was both very enjoyable and
very informative.
Best,
Rick Jones
Washington DC
The milongas
My primary goal for this trip was to go as many milongas as possible. So
normally I would go to two/three milongas per day.
Overall impressions.
* I saw dancers dancing in open embrace on three occasions: one tourist
couple at Club Espanol, one guy at El Beso switched to open embrace when he
danced with a tourist from Spain, one guy late at Nino Bien after the floor
cleared, this one could have been local dancer. Besides these three
exceptions people dance chest to chest at all milongas I went to. Everyday
milongas are as crowded as those at crowded Denver festival with about as
many or more people. The level of dancing is naturally more uniform and
rather high. I have not seen any beginners, either they take lessons for
couple years before starting to dance or there are special beginner
milongas??
* After each song within tanda couples simply stand on the floor and chat
for half or full minute into the next song. Only every forth/fifth local
dancer speaks conversational English. So if you do not speak Spanish the
pauses will feel rather cumbersome. This is another reason why tourists do
not get invited often. Tourists do speak English usually.
* At most milongas a tanda of salsa/merengue is played (at some rock-n-roll
is played too). As far as salsa dancing is concerned BsAs is very far from
Miami, Boston, Denver, San Diego or San Juan. In fact salsa dancing at
milongas is downright pitiful (it may be better in salsa clubs, I didn t go
to those in BsAs). Also a tanda of local country line dance is also often
played. Cute to see the first couple times but in general I do not like line
dances of any kind limited improvisation.
* Many milongas have performances by performance dancers. The best I saw was
at Porteno y Bailarin by Pibe (?), stocky guy with black crew cut
excellent close embrace dancing not limited by line of dance and space. The
worst was one of several performances at Salon Canning the guy routinely
threw follower in the air, there was virtually no dancing with each other
if I want to see figure skating I ll buy a TV, there is no need to do it to
tango music and on the dance floor too.
* Same place may host different quality milongas at different days of the
week.
* People do smoke but it is not that bad - the ceilings are high and
ventilation is good. Also I used to smoke too so it is not something
entirely new to me.
* Unless you drink wine be ready to make the crucial choice: Sin or con
gas? (bottled water). At El Beso edible food also served.
* see cabeseo
Listed below are some of milongas I went to. For more complete and
betterinformed list see: Dancing in Buenos Aires by Jenny DeBouzek
(https://www.tangodowntown.net/dancinginbsas.html) and Tango postcard by Bibi
Wong (https://ourworld.cs.com/bibibwong/homepage.html).
Monday
Matinee at Confiteria Ideal. My first milonga. Straight from the plane. I
told so the hostess and she kindly put me in the middle of the first row. It
was a bit stressful, I stared too much but I did get to dance a bit.
Lo de Celia. The best and the most thoughtful placement of dancers by the
host. Older crowd especially on Monday. Again I was placed right in the
midst of milogueros. Here I have met D. rather luckily. Still stressed and
clumsy with cabeseo. Had very different and good experience at Saturday
matinee. Got to dance with some exceptionally good dancers both local and
from New York (clandestine "I am local" New Yorker who visits BsAs twice a
year). Lo de Celia is the best place to go to on Saturday considering that
this day of the week is mostly couples night elsewhere.
Salon Canning. Mixed crowd (mostly younger, the most touristy place of all).
Los Cosos de al Lao quartet was playing. Original violin player. Very
crowded. I watched mostly (danced only four tandas).
Tuesday (everything within walking distance of hotel at Avenida de Mayo)
Matinee at El Arranque. Older crowd. Still somewhat uncomfortable with
cabeseo. Danced with D. again. Left early to get more CDs at Zivals.
Un Monton de Tango at El Beso. Relatively small milonga. The best music
selection and the best overall quality of dancing. A bit dark for cabeseo
especially if you are not very good at it. People tend to know each other
and to dance within the circle of friends and acquaintances. Very friendly
bar personnel. Order cafe con leche separado. Also here is where I was
seated next to two hardcore milongueros a lot of false invitations. One of
attendees confided me that this milonga is where middle to upper middle
class of BsAs goes to dance to. Certainly the most dressed up crowd. Most of
the dancers migrate to Porteno y Bailarin after 1 am.
Porteno y Bailarin. Down the street from El Beso. Mixed crowd. Two small
elongated floors. A chance to observe old milongueros presiding over one of
the floors. Occasionally they abandon presiding part for a bit of dancing
with eager followers. I am getting better at cabeseo.
Wednesday
Fattomano custom shoes are just couple blocks from Salon Canning matinee and
reachable by subte (subway). This matinee is not too crowded. Left early to
go to group class with La Academia at El Beso. The class was followed by a
small milonga. Took a chance to dance with fellow students.
La Nacional. Diverse crowd. Older, younger, locals, tourists. Elongated and
sizable floor. I had a lot of fun with D. at this milonga. I came late (at
midnight) and luckily she happened to have an empty seat at her table. She
has the best deadpan sense of humor I have encountered in years. Keen eye,
sharp tongue and no qualms whatsoever about using it. What a relief this
milonga was. This is where I truly have started to feel comfortable at BsAs
milongas.
Thursday
Matinee at Club Espanol. The most ornate/posh building of all. Due to
apparent absence of hardcore milongueros I got to be a minor star at this
particular milonga. In fact I had to hide my eyes for a bit of break from
dancing.
Salon Canning. Me and D. went here to avoid crowds. The place was fairly
empty since everyone is at Nino Bien on Thursdays. This again gave me a
chance to be a minor star. A lot of dancing with different people including
Japanese tigress, grrr (D., animal print dress, very animated footwork).
Nino Bien past 2 am. Floor large enough to accommodate everyone you have
heard of plus some tourists before 3 am. Reasonably empty past 3 am.
Friday
Salon Canning. Friday was very crowded. A lot of performances.
La Estrella is couple beautiful shady streets away from Salon Canning. Free
entrance past 3:30 am. Also large floor. Mostly younger crowd. Tandas
routinely have six songs in them at this milonga. Last tanda at 5:50 am is
danced with lights off. Try it. Ride to hotel at six in the morning was
memorable too BsAs waking up/going to bed at morning twilight.
Saturday
Matinee at Lo de Celia. The place to dance on Saturday if you are single. I
managed to get into tango zone within one tango with one exceptional local
dancer at this milonga I did not have to lead her since she always was
able to be in front of me, amazing skill.
El Beso. I started to really dance at El Beso at this milonga. Danced with
daughter of Picasso (yep, the painter). She is from Spain of course, dances
tango for one year and has that easygoing cocktail parlor demeanor which is
so difficult to imitate without years of practice. Now, what would be a
clever retort to Oleh, Oleh (said to a bull fight motive)? Charge?
La Viruta (same place as La Estrella). I went to this milonga after El Beso
to drink some wine and to watch only the floor is raised at the entrance,
nice vantage point.
Sunday
El Beso Went to Plaza Dorrego and decided to walk to El Beso instead of
riding cab to Tasso. A mistake in retrospect.
Porteno y Bailarin this was my last milonga and I danced a lot at this one
Cheers, Oleh K.
Colorado Springs
https://TangoSpring.com
