1335 First Trip to Buenos Aires
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 13:31:42 +0000
From: Daisy Gardiner <tawny_port@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: First Trip to Buenos Aires
Some months ago, I asked this list for recommendations on places to stay,
eat and dance on my first trip to Buenos Aires. I have just returned, and
want to share my observations and recommendations to anyone going to BsAs
for the first time.
Buenos Aires is a friendly city. You will find people welcoming and helpful.
That said, it is also a large city, so navigation is important. The subte
(subway) is easy. Get a subte map. For $3 pesos (about $1 US) also invest in
a "Guia "T" de Bolsillo," a little pocket size street map booklet with
corresponding buses (colectivos). You can pick one up at any of the
newstands on the streets. Public transportation is safe and not dificult,
but if you prefer to use taxis, use the "radio taxis" that you see on the
street. I had been told to only use remises, unmarked cars that you call,
but I found this unnecessary. The radio taxis are safe.
If you re looking for a wonderful place to stay, try Caseron Porteno in
Belgrano. It s a little more expensive than many of the tango houses, but
well worth the price. Belgrano is not downtown, and has the advantage of
being a neighborhood where you can feel comfortable walking at night. It s
about 20 minutes into the heart of the city by subte. Cinthia and Daniel,
the hosts at the Caseron, are a very nice young couple who are tango
dancers. In addition to providing you with an impeccably clean room with a
private bath, included in the price is breakfast and a daily 90 minute tango
lesson (not Sunday) with an excllent teacher. They have 4 different teachers
who give the classes. You will like the style of some more than others,
depending on your preferences, but I can recommend them all. The Caseron is
spacious, with a shared living room where you have cable TV (with a tango
channel) and unlimited free access to the Internet. There is also a studio
where you can practice your tango. And, they have two wonderful cats,
Fierita and Sasha, who socialize on occasion. Seems that the guests always
threaten to take the kitties home with them! Daniel will meet you at the
airport for a small fee and, once installed in the Caseron, will personally
show you around the neighborhood. Cinthia and Daniel are happy to recommend
teachers, milongas, restaurants (try the Galician restaurant around the
corner) and to help you with anyting else you might need. If you re lucky,
they might even invite you to a barbecue (asado), where you could very well
meet their wonderful family.
Looking for tango shoes? Most tango visitors seem to buy shoes when they are
in BsAs. Being a real "shoe person," I headed for the shoe stores first
thing. Seems that everyone has heard of Flabella, and I m no exception. They
have beautiful shoes, to be sure. Unfortunately, Flabella is disorganized
and inefficient, not to mention not very friendly. If you are dead set on a
pair of their shoes, go there first thing. If they have your size and style
(and can find it), you re all set. If not, expect to wait at least 4 days
longer than they tell you for them to make the shoes, and make sure they fit
when you go to collect them. Another woman staying at the Caseroon ordered 3
pairs from Flabella and left for Germany without them, as they still ween't
ready. The good part: no down payment. For a totally different shoe
experience, try Mahara, also on Suipacha, but on the other side of 9 de
Julio. Mahara is a family business owned by a brother and sister who will go
out of their way to fit you perfectly and to see that you have the shoes you
want. I bought three pair and, after dancing in them went back and ordered a
red pair like my new black ones. They told me they d be ready on Tuesday
(less than a week) and, sure enough, they called me Tuesday to say they were
in. If you order shoes there, you will need to put down a small deposit,
but, have confidence. You will not be disappointed.
One of the things I wanted to know before I went to BsAs was what women wore
on the streets. Pants. Young women wear jeans; older women do not. Women
generally don t wear sneakers. So, if you want to fit in and not look like a
tourist, try dark slacks and leather shoes.
The people of Buenos Aires are the friendliest I have met. I haven t been
everywhere, but I ve seen some of the world, and I can say without
reservation that the portenos are truly warm and gracious. It wasn t just
that they were courteous and helpful; it was more than that. People started
conversations in the subte. I was invited to a wine tasting in a stranger s
home (and went and had a wonderful time). I met a delightful woman and I
think that she will remain a friend always. Go with an open mind and an open
heart.
Thinking of learning Spanish? Contact Diana at Buenos Aires Escuela de
Espanol (BAESP). She will customize a Spanish learning program to suit your
needs and make it fun and enjoyable, too. You can t go wrong. I worked on
basics, clothing, food, body parts (rodillas = knees) and slang. We also
took some walking tours of different parts of the city.
You are likely to find that things in Buenos Aires are inexpensive compared
to the US and Europe. Entry into a milonga is frequently $5 pesos, and may
include a drink with the price of entry (Nino Bien). Shoes, at $100 pesos
are a great deal. I took friends out for dinner one evening at a pasta
restaurant. With appetizers, dessert, coffee and a bottle of wine, the cost
came to about $30 US for three adults. You can definitely spend more, but
few meals cost me as much as $15 US total.
The cabeceo. Ladies, do not despair. The nod that gets you a dance is not
mysterious. You ve read all about it, and that s exactly how it works. Look
around the room once the tanda has ended or when the new tanda is beginning
and see if you catch someone s eye. Smile. If you think he s looking at you,
nod your head and see if you get a response. If he gets up and comes toward
you, keep your eye on him (to make sure it s you that he nodded to) and then
go meet him on the dance floor. I m sure there are subtleties, but there is
no need to worry. Be patient and enjoy the milonga.
There are lots of great dance teachers, if you have a mind to take lessons.
You don t need a big name to learn a lot. Find someone who will give you
what you re looking for. You can do this by asking around and by going to
practicas where you can meet different teachers and check out their style.
I paid between $25 and $30 US for a 90 minute private lesson.
Argentina is a country in economic crisis. When you look around, it may look
just like another big city. But keep in mind that the change in currency
resulted in people earning 2/3 less than what they had previously earned. I
had coffee with an elementary school teacher who told me that, before the
currency change, she had earned the equivlent of $15,000 US/year. Now, in
the same position, she is earning $15,000 pesos. You can get a good deal,
but many Argentines are living in poverty. Spend your money, but don t
flaunt it.
I could go on and on (but you re probably tired of reading my personal
memoir). I had a wonderful trip and can t wait to return. I will be happy to
provide additional information. Write to me privately.
Oh, I am not affiliated with any of the businesses I have recommended.
Daisy
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 11:12:51 EDT
From: Crrtango@aol.com
Subject: [Tango-L] First trip to Buenos Aires
To: TANGO-L@mit.edu
re Michael's experience in Bs. As.:
With all due respect, MIchael, I think this is another one of those reality
checks. This might be a good time to reevaluate your dancing skills.
In fact, this is a perfect time while you are there. Find some good
teachers, take classes and try to fix things. We learn from humbling
experiences. I hope you will do the same.
Cheers,
Charles
**************
A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2
easy steps!
(https://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220814852x1201410738/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%">www.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%">https://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220814852x1201410738/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%
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Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 23:11:13 -0300
From: Michael <tangomaniac@cavtel.net>
Subject: Re: [Tango-L] First trip to Buenos Aires
To: Crrtango@aol.com
Cc: tango-l@mit.edu
<13176a380904191911j25d88016tafa321e3eea18a24@mail.gmail.com>
Charles:
When a woman says ?muy bien?or ?bien? to me, I must be doing
something right. I don?t know why women would otherwise say
something. They aren?t obligated to say anything between the dances.
Of course, NOT every woman says that. If my dancing was terrible, I
don?t think the Argentines would dance with me and just ignore my
cabeceo.
Regardless of where you dance, there are compatible partners (music,
skill level, passion) and then there aren?t. If I wasn?t compatible
with ANY of the women, I?d have to evaluate my situation.
Michael
On Sun, Apr 19, 2009 at 12:12 PM, <Crrtango@aol.com> wrote:
> re Michael's experience in Bs. As.:
>
> With all due respect, MIchael, I think this is another one of those reality
> checks. ? ?This might be a good time to reevaluate your dancing skills.
> In fact, this is a perfect time while you are there. ? Find some good
> teachers, take classes and try to fix things. ? ?We learn from humbling
> experiences. ? I hope you will do the same.
>
> Cheers,
> Charles
>
>
>
> **************
> A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2
> easy steps!
> (https://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220814852x1201410738/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%">www.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%">https://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220814852x1201410738/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%
> 26hmpgID%3D62%26bcd%3DAprilfooter419NO62)
>
--
I'd rather be dancing Argentine Tango
