1582  Recuerdos de Buenos Aires 7/5

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 13:36:41 EDT
From: Charles Roques <Crrtango@AOL.COM>
Subject: Recuerdos de Buenos Aires 7/5

7/5 Saturday late morning. Not enough sleep but have to go out to the barrio
Flores to see Juan Carlos of "Le Tango" about custom shoes. After a quick
coffee head out on the Subte linea E end of the line - beautiful old subway car
with all wood interior. Subways are well maintained and clean and cheap. Like
Paris, one opens the door manually then quickly gets on and off, even if still
moving! Short walk to Pergamino St. to his workshop. Not a great neighborhood,
has run down over the years but was probably nicer in times past. A lot of
street-corner parilladas around, oil barrels cut in half, a few chairs and voila!
an instant outdoor cafe! - complete with a scenic view of the traffic circle.
Reminds me of the pushcart taco vendors in Mexico. Danel Bastone grew up not
far from here. Juan Carlos greets me at the door, I go in to his living
room/showroom to sit and see samples. He cuts the heat on and fetches coffee. Very
nice shoes, number of styles and combinations. He is very friendly and business
soon turns to socializing. Like many Argentines he is very gracious and
accomodating. A third generation shoemaker, Armenian, his grandfather started the
business and workshop over a hundred years ago, followed by his father, then
him but he lamented that his son isn't interested in continuing. I look around
and see autographed photos, Milena Plebs and Ezequiel Farfaro, Jorge Firpo and
Aurora Lubiz, Los Copes and others, all clients of his. Hmm, I think I came to
the right place. I have heard bad stories about some of the more famous
shoemakers in the city, like being sold shoes off the shelf even after having been
measured for a custom pair and Juan Carlos confirms that this is true. His
shoes are beautiful, old world craftmanship but very inexpensive right now
because of the economy. He carefully measured my feet, drew a footprint of each
along with girth of toes, instep, etc. noticed my injury and measured for
orthopedic corrections in heel counter and a lift to be added to the right foot, very
thorough. Not to mention the coffee and hospitality and stories - spent four
hours there - he is also quite the milonguero (another plus for a shoemaker)
and never failed to inquire where I was going dancing (along with
recommendations) when I called to check on progress. He normally requires at least two
weeks but did mine in slightly less because of my schedule. Total price for two
pairs, combination smooth leather and suede, one pair dark blue, (very cool-blue
suede tango shoes!) other slightly different style but also combination
smooth and suede, in black -$140.US for both!! I can't even find off the rack shoes
for that price at home. Note: normally would cost about $80. - 90.( US
dollars only) but a friend bought many pairs at the same time so a discount was
given. Would still be a bargain though. Will return on next Saturday to pick them
up. Can't wait.
Write me for more info about him. In fact, I need someone to retrieve two
more pairs I ordered after I returned. :-)

Short lunch and nap. Tonight out to celebrate birthday. Decided to go to
Gricel.

Note: Saturday night is couples night there - "matrimonios", as it is at a
number of other milongas on Sat. so check this out first when you are there
because being solo could mean no dances all night. This may have happened to some
who have gone down, not being aware of it.

Taxi out to Gricel which is a very nice club with great atmosphere and music.
Since I was with a friend the couples only aspect wasn't so bad. Met Hector
Chidichimi's (owner, currently in NYC) son Gustavo and his partner Virginia.
They teach milonga traspie on Wed aft. but won't be there next Wed. because of
travel but were nice enough to do a few dances for my birthday. Beautiful
dancers, one of the few if not only couple I've ever seen that danced traspie with
real elegance. Turned out to be the best dancers I saw in Buenos Aires.
Regretted not being able to take his class while there. Would highly recommend it
when there. Wonderful people and very hospitable, treated us grandly and spent
the rest of the evenig with us. Took us back to the cupula where we shot some
photos together. Very sweet people and a very nice evening. Birthday in Buenos
Aires, great club, champagne, great dancing, a night to remember.

Off to sleep with adrenalin storing up for tomorrow. Not concerned - will
sleep when I return to the states :-) Tomorrow to San Telmo and Plaza Dorrego
flea market.

Cheers,
Charles