1639  Recuerdos de Buenos Aires 7/10

Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 12:10:59 EDT
From: Charles Roques <Crrtango@AOL.COM>
Subject: Recuerdos de Buenos Aires 7/10

Thurs 7/10

Decided to go to Confiteria Ideal for the aft. class and milonga after.
Bottom floor is the main part where one eats and has coffee. "Second" floor or
upper level is where the classes and milongas are held. Very empty and quite run
down (as I was warned.) One lone waiter who looked disappointed about having
more customers. Paint is dark and peeling, cracks on the walls, loose plaster,
jerry-rigged wiring, overall depressing atmosphere. In all fairness there are
a few signs apologizing for the appearance and that there is restoration work
being done, although there is no evidence of that. Perhaps the economic slump
is to blame. I also considered that I came at an "off" hour, and maybe on the
wrong day but I decided to stay awhile to watch. The class was not very good
and was half over so I just ordered something to eat and sat down to watch. It
was mostly a few European tourists who were self-consciously running around
and showing off the steps that they had not learned very well. Or not been tau
ght very well.
Note: There are many many teachers in Buenos Aires and many are not very good
so choose wisely and with a recommendation from someone. Tango is increasing
in popularity there like it is everywhere and there are lots of new "teachers"
and many new students.
I sat and ate my lunch, a single piece of fish?! no side dish, nothing else
and the waiter gave me a basket of bread that had been on another table. I
would have walked out if I had been in the States or anywhere else but again I
blamed it on the economy and decided to stay and observe. It was strange sitting
there in the empty, cold room, dark and funereal from years of city dirt and
neglect. I imagined Luis Bunuel directing Viridiana here, or perhaps The
Exterminating Angel. I finished and had a coffee and waited for the milonga to
begin. There is an hour between the class and the milonga but they don't post that
anywhere so I sat for an hour in the chilly room, bemoaning the decrepit state
and trying to read. Eventually a woman came in and sat down. Then an older
gentleman came in and after a bit danced with the lone woman, returning to his
seat every three or four songs only to rise and walk back to her and continue
another set. They were both relative beginners but he tried many steps anyway,
strutting like a peacock back and forth to dance with her. Very surreal and
sadly comical. Gradually a few more came in. I danced with the only one there
that seemed to know how to dance very well, we chatted a little bit but I
decided I didn't want to wait to see how the evening would turn out. This was
definitely not the same place that one saw in the "Tango Lesson;" pretty depressing
overall. I'll wait until they finish renovating before I return. Later at
night it may be nicer downstairs but under the cruel light of the dim naked bulbs
hanging from the ceiling upstairs, it is a sad remnant of another era. I hope
that the restoration will continue (or even start.) It deserves better.
Melancholy tango. But I would still recommend stopping by to see it, if only
briefly. You might get there on a better day.

Dinner then dressed to go to Nino Bien. Dressing is a personal preference but
I always wore my suit everywhere and felt appropriately attired. Since it is
winter now the milongas are very comfortable. N. B. is a very large and
spacious hall with high ceilings. It became very crowded but the flow of the dancers
kept it fluid and easy to dance in. It wasn't crazy like Porteno Y Bailarin.
Note: Don't be too hard on yourself if you don't dance very well at P y B.
even many Portenos don't like to go there because it is so packed.
Again saw many of the usuals, Gavito and his crew, also saw Omar Vega who has
been to New York often and spoke with him briefly. Lot of good dancers there.
Part of the appeal of places like this is their age which is evident and
knowing that tango has been danced here for years. Finally left about 5:00 AM
trying to avoid the guys outside who seemed to think I couldn't hail my own taxi
even though it was already waiting for me right in front of the door. Breakfast
at one of the numerous all night restaurants near the Plaza del Congreso.
Very cold tonight 30 degress fahrenheit but I'm feelig good.

Tomorrow to the Academy of Tango.

Cheers
Charles