1658 Recuerdos de Buenos Aires 7/12
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 12:10:37 EDT
From: Charles Roques <Crrtango@AOL.COM>
Subject: Recuerdos de Buenos Aires 7/12
Sat 7/12 Last day.
Up early at 10:30 AM. :-) Have to go to Juan Carlos’ to pick up my shoes. I
arrive there and settle down in his kitchen for coffee as he finishes up the
last details. Humidity of past week a delaying factor in drying and forming the
leather. Usual time frame is around two weeks but I didn’t have that luxury
because of my schedule so he was grcious enough to do a rush order for me. He
finally brings them out and I am very impressed with the quality and detail. A
real artisan with a lot of pride in his work. I can understand why Milena
Plebs, Aurora, Jorge and others order from him. Because of my recent injuries he
added a lift in the right shoe and adjusted the rear counter to accomodate my
reassembled heel. But the orthopedic adjustments are invisible and the shoes,
one a combination of smooth dark blue calf's leather and dk blue suede
goatskin, the other pair black, a combination of smooth leather and suede are
beautiful. The total cost - $160.US for both!! I recommend him over an established
place like Flabella. Mainly because you can be guaranteed he actually makes them
to your specifications. He has no store, just the same workshop his
grandfather started and his father continued from 1898. He is an incredible craftsman.
Some places have shady reputations for selling already made shoes off the
shelf instead of actually using your measurements.
He has a web site in Spanish and English - letangoshoes.com. It is better if
you go in person because you can create your own combinations of leathers and
colors. It is also fascinating seeing shoes in varying states of completion
and piles of leather and shoe forms of this old world artisan. Shipping can be
very expensive so bringing them back with you is best, not to mention getting
to know this fine craftsman and milonguero as well. Please feel free to write
me for any other information regarding this.
I dropped off the shoes and headed out for a last visit to the San Telmo
neighborhood where I shot some more film and strolled around going to the Parque
Lezama where one finds the tango club Torquato Tasso. Stopped for a coffee then
headed out to La Boca.
Caminito is very touristy of course and a little gaudy with papier-mache
tango figures hanging out the windows. But the fact that it is in a poorer section
section of town saves it from being too much like Disneyworld. The street
tango shows are stereotyped and theatrical, meant for tourists but the atmosphere
is festive with a rock band playing by the waterfront and tango music oozing
out of all the shops. One can shop for CDs and books here but the selection is
limited. Lots of knick-knacks and fork-and-spoon tango figurines. But there
are some nice hand made artisanry and crafts as well. I did find one shop with
old sheet music of familiar songs that I have in my own collection which
helped give the songs a historical context with the old photos of Alberto Castillo,
Nelly Omar and Edgardo Donato on the covers. One “Cuatro Recuerdos,” by the
Tanturi orchestra was even autographed by the composer, Raul Iglesias.
The surrounding neighborhood is not so good so I don’t recommend wandering
outside the Caminito area and especially not after dark. Take the taxis from
there because they will be already full if you leave the area and try to flag one
down on the way back to the city center. They don’t cruise the streets of La
Boca.
The best advice however is to try to not look like a tourist. Wearing brand
new sparkling white running shoes and bright colored running suits and carrying
cameras and fanny packs while you gawk at the locals will only invite
thieves. Fanny packs are easy to grab. Just wear normal clothes as if you lived there
but be sensitive to how others dress and try to blend in. Leave all your gear
at the hotel. I saw no theft or scams while there and even locals carry back
packs and handbags of course. It also helps to speak Spanish but it isn’t n
ecessary. If you blend in you will have a much better relaxed time and avoid
encounters. For those like myself who live in NYC being cautious is second nature
so it all seemed normal to me. The economy is improving slightly but there are
still regular protests around the Casa Rosada and the banks downtown so be
sensitive to that and avoid those areas if something is happening.
This visit was entirely too short and I hope to return soon but at least I
bring back memories and tangible mementos like beautiful shoes and books and CDs
that will always remind me of it. It is a grand city, full of gracious polite
people but it is not a fantasy land. Like all great cities there are many
aspects to it.
I hope this reportage has been informative and helpful. It has helped me
vicariously relive it.
Cheers,
Charles Roques
