1576  Recuerdos de Buenos Aires 7/4

Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 12:34:52 EDT
From: Charles Roques <Crrtango@AOL.COM>
Subject: Recuerdos de Buenos Aires 7/4

Today I will begin a series of daily impressions of my recent trip to Bs As,
mostly from sketchy notes I kept while there. As with any reportage, these
impressions are personal and subjective although I will try to paint as realistic
and objective a picture as possible to help people form some ideas about the
city and tango customs and compare notes with their own experiences. People
who have not visited there have many, often idealized, notions about the tango
world. Like anywhere else it is a blend of the good, the bad, and the ugly, not
to mention the sublime and ridiculous.

I was unable to go there early in my dancing experience then later due to a
serious injury just as I was making plans for an extended stay. I realize now
that it was a blessing because my dancing abilities are now much more advanced
and I had plenty of information to cull from people who have gone there
already. I hope this information and my views are of some help in demystifying the
experience. I will try to be succinct but will also answer any personal queries
(within reason) about the city.

7/4 late morning. Arrived on a drizzly overcast day (winter there). Passing
through the large expanse of suburbs listening to tango on the radio sets the
proper tone. Eventually we drive on to the famous wide boulevard "9 de Julio"
and then to my place of lodging, the imposing landmark building (La
Inmobiliaria) famous for it's pair of red cupulas on the Avenida de Mayo at the Plaza del
Congreso. To my delight my bedroom is in one of the the cupulas. Many may
know this building from the "Bridge to the Tango" catalog in which it's rooftop
terrace has appeared. The view from the terrace is impressive as one notices
the many other cupulas on the skyline of the city. Although I am exhausted from
the overnight flight, my adrenalin prevents me from napping very long and I am
up planning the evening before long.

Spoke with Gavito on the phone who will be at Salon Canning later so I decide
to go there.
Crowded and lively milonga, great to see Carlos who is looking healthy. He
was dealing with a bout of cancer some time ago but it is in remission and he is
is good spirits and has dropped the cigarettes for good. He still likes his
scotch though and his amigo Johnny Walker is usually among the crew at his
table. Great music, performance by a couple who I didn't know and I'm gradually
starting to become aware of the amount of cigarette smoke in the air. Lucklily
it doesn't affect me too badly - perhaps my adrenalin is countering it. Had
some dances, saw a few familiar faces of tangueros who had visited or given
workshops in New York. Many of the famous people are out of the city doing
workshops and festivals in the US, Europe and Asia. But I rather enjoy being there
without the hustle and bustle of tourists and famous people. It seems more normal
and I can fade into the scenery easier.
Around 3:00 AM Gavito and his crew decide to go to La Estrella which is
within walking distance so I join the gang and end up over there.
At one point the floor filled with dancers doing the chacarera for about a
half hour. Great energy and a lively break from the tango. Enjoyed some dances
with some lovely locals and eventually headed out around 5:00 back to the
cupula. Most milongas start at 11:00PM and last until 5:00 AM but a fairly recent
tradition has started in Buenos Aires of "afternoon" milongas, meaning ones
that begin between 4:00 to 6:00 and last until 11:00 or 12:00 PM for those who
have trouble with the all-nighters, or who want to actually use part of the
daylight to do something besides rest up before more dancing, although I can't
imagine what. :-)
Note 1: The name of a milonga may not be the name of the locale where it is
held. So make sure you know the name of the actual building and address.
Sponsors will give their dance a name like "Lo de Celia" but it is not necessarily
the name of the dance hall. Admission everywhere is about 5 pesos or $2. US so
stopping in two or three milongas a night is not only feasible but infectious.
Note 2: Get used to the "cabeceo" (kah-beh-SAY-o). Simply put it is a nod of
the head to the person the man wants to dance with. Usually men instigate it
so women should be aware that men will do it to you. Men, do not walk up to a
women to ask her to dance. That is not done. Scan the room and try to make eye
contact, then nod to the person when you do. If she nods back, get up and
approach her. She will not come to you and may make no other gesture other than to
return the nod. No wave or anything else. It may be very subtle. I saw plenty
of Argentine men nod away without always getting a response so don't feel
like you are the only one being ignored. Dance the tanda of either tangos or
waltzes or milongas (maybe three, maybe four or five - depends on the DJ) then
escort her back to her seat. This ritual is important and is observed. Don't be
casual about it. Besides it saves face if you are ignored. No one really knows
it except the two of you. Whether or not you agree with it or like it, it is
part of the tango social scene and you will have a much better time accepting
by just accepting it.
More on etiquette in future posts for both men and women.

Anyway, a brief breakfast at the Cafe Espanol on the Avenida de Mayo where a
curious number of single women are hopping from table to table as single men
come in. Hmmm.

Off to sleep as the rooftops light up with the morning sun. Tomorrow (uh
..today) - custom made shoes. Oh boy! Maybe my broken heels will at last find a
comfortable home.

Cheers,
Charles Roques