537  BACK TO BA

Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 22:33:10 -0400
From: DANCE MORE TANGO TEES 'N THINGS <24tango@BELLSOUTH.NET>
Subject: BACK TO BA

The first time visitor to Buenos Aires would never know anything was amiss. They would only see
the grand old, sprawling Euro-Italian city, with the tiny cars that make six lanes out of the marked
five on the wide avenidas and depending on the time of year the enormous trees shading the little
neighborhoods. But I have just returned from my 11th trip to BA and there is a difference. Not that
the gardens around Congreso show any smoke damage and no more than usual the graffiti on the
many statues, nor do you see too many demonstrators, but there is a veil of sadness hanging over
the city. The queues at the banks are very long for the residents who are unable to withdraw funds,
many confiterias that were always open all nite are now closed at the end of the business day,
and the 'For Sale' signs are everywhere. People simply cannot afford to maintain the utilities,
and are returning home to live with parents or other relatives to consolidate expenses.

As usual I stayed at the tango house of Maria Teresa Lopez, my friend for many years, and
had a delightful visit. We did many things together, including a day trip to Tigre, passing
through the architecturally fabulous city of San Isidro, and of course going to the milongas.
The apartment is located in the quiet neighborhood of Caballito, near Parque Rivadavia, with
many shops and confiterias on the block and nearby to many milongas. Maria is a wonderful
hostess and I recommend the house to everyone.


As to the security of the city, I saw no danger to me at anytime; I walked where and when
I pleased. Of course I felt more secure seeing police now and then, hanging in the gloom of
doorways. From what I gather, the media exaggerated the danger in the city and only a few
areas were ever at risk. As always though, it was suggested that I not walk in San Telmo or
centro at nite, something I have never done anyway. Two American couples I know feel secure
enough to have chosen to buy homes in BA, one couple living there on a full time basis and
the other a condo as a vacation home.

The milongas also showed signs of the economy. There were many less to choose from this
year, and the dance floors were not as crowded. Even Nino Bien on thursday was danceable.
Gricel was as busy as ever with many more women than men and good tables hard to get.
Fortunately I saw many old friends from years past so I always had a nice evening. And for all
you non smokers, yes, some of the milongas are smoky. (and the tellers in the banks smoke as
they change your money.)
I could give opinions on all the milongas I attended, but my purpose here is to give a general
overview and my impressions.

The dance style is still very much milonguero style with very little salon tango. Not as much
traspie as I expected, which I was very disappointed. And the back step is used frequently.
I was also a little surprised at the music, it was the same as always, varying only a little and what I
hear in south florida. I asked a dj about this and he said he would love to play other things
but the crowd complains.

Sadly for the Argentines the peso has devalued drastically but for me it meant that my dollar was
worth $2.66:1 at the time. Travelers checks and cash were easily changed into pesos, and the
costs of the milongas was 3-5 pesos, taxis were worth taking everywhere, (the heck with the subte,)
and shoes were $35.00 US. I visited 4 of the major shoe salons and Flabella still ranks best for
syles, inventory and sizes. Susana also has wonderful inventory including some great mens
shoes, and half sizes as well. Cardela had limited inventory and only full sizes as did Delie.
All salons will make shoes for you but still dont trust Flabella for delivery. I had shoes made at
Susanas and delivery was on time, but in general I prefer to buy 'off the rack'.


So ends another adventure. If anyone has any questions regarding the milongas, etc. please
e me directly.

regards to the list,
norma greco
www.dancemoretango.com